Dear Eric,
I am disappointed in how well my new motorhome handles: it just doesn’t handle as well as I believe it should. One problem is that it wanders on a road with ruts, and it leans, and rock and rolls. I am also disappointed in the shocks. The RV has a Kodak C5500 chassis, Duramax diesel engine and an Allison transmission. Do you have any suggestions? — Ron

Dear Ron,
My first suggestion would be to install a Davis Tru Trac Bar on the front axle. Also, I would recommend you install Koni FSD shocks. The company makes a shock specifically for your chassis. Once installed, they will give you a good comfortable ride and much better handling. For the “leaning and rock and rolling,” I recommended you install a RSS Roadmaster Suspension Solutions front sway bar and rear auxiliary rear sway bar that was developed for the C5500. You might also want to install a Super Steer rear trac bar: it will reduce or eliminate the “tail wag the dog” that many RVs seem to have with a large overhang behind the rear axles. The order of the suggestions I made here would also serve as the priorities for what you should do to get the handling you seek.

Dear Eric,
I read your answer on the “A” motor home in regards to Banks system but what about V-10 Ford gas? What is the best way to improve fuel mileage? I have read about the Green intake filter systems but hear more about the K&N. Is there a difference for the money on these? –Gary Guptill

Dear Gary,
The Banks system works great on the V-10 Ford motorhome chassis. It comes with a much improved air intake assembly. They changed the air intake housing to allow for more space around the air filter, and also enlarged the intake pipe from the air filter to the throttle body, and they use a K&N air filter element. The company advertises something like 70 percent increase in air flow over the stock system. You can install the K&N or Green air filter in the stock housing but it won’t flow as well as the Bank’s unit, which is the best way to improve mileage. Finally, make sure it’s running right with clean filters, and put your motorhome on a diet by driving slower.

Dear Eric,
I just installed Firestone air springs on the rear of my 1998 Class A Itasca Suncruiser with a Ford chassis. In the owners instructions it states that you should not jack or lift the unit by the frame as it could over extend the air springs and cause damage. My question is how do you level the unit with the leveling system that is attached frame with out having it extend the air springs? I know there are thousands of units out in the field with this same set up. Could you safety strap the axle to the frame so it could not drop down enough to cause damage? — Bob Jones

Dear Bob,
Many RVers are using these units and they still use their jacks for leveling. I guess that your main concern is about lifting the axle up far enough to lift the tires off the ground — not a very good idea. The reason is that the jacks with the rear wheels in the air could slide on the ground and bend the jacks as well as damage the air bags. Because the park brake would be ineffective in holding the coach from rolling, whatever you do — keep the rear wheels on the ground. You could build limiting straps for the front axle by installing them on that axle.

Dear Eric,
I would like to travel the United States with my two kids, maybe even go full-time. I want to buy a maintenance contract to help lessen my fears of breakdowns and expenses. Can you recommend one that is reasonably priced and doesn’t hide all its ‘outs’ in fine print? I think buying such a policy would be cheaper than replacing my beloved 1996 Flair (Chevy chassis) motorhome. Also, what is the solution for overheating? I can’t go more than a couple of hundred miles on flat land without the engine overheating.That leaves out most everywhere I want to go. – Eve

Dear Eve,
I can’t make a specific recommendation for a motorhome service contract. One thing that I have observed is that RVers are often sold something that they believe covers the RV for everything. RV service contracts seem to do pretty well on RV appliances like refrigerators, heaters and air conditioners. But when it comes to getting work done on the chassis and engine, whether a repair is covered under the warranty may not be clear. So my advice is to read the “exclusions” in a particular warranty contract to understand what is not covered. It’s a good idea to ask several RV dealers what they can offer for a service contract. Or consult with your local mechanic. Be sure to shop the price as it can very greatly from one seller to another.

As far as your overheating problem, is the temperature gauge just running higher? Does the engine feel or smell hot? Do you hear/feel the fan running when it starts to get hot? It’s normal to hear a roaring noise when the engine starts to heat up. If you do not experience something like this you may need a fan clutch replaced, as it controls the engine’s cooling and will cause it to overheat if not working. If you’re using your engine’s air conditioning when it’s overheating, try turning it off and instead use the generator and roof air. That will take a lot of heat load off the engine. There are many little things that could contribute to your overheating problems. You should find a qualified service tech to take a good look before you travel again in the summer.